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4.7.09 The following is a list of the suppliers I've used, mostly for engine parts.  I've Been e-mailing this list all over the globe for a few years now, so I thought it would be handy to have it on the site too.  Eventually I will add to the list for suppliers of other parts too, time permitting.  Drop me an e-mail if you find the list helpfull.

Pete






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Engine Block

I started with my original 1950 Plymouth 218 block, and had it bored .030" over to clean up the wear in the cylinders.






tumbnail Stock Engine Parts and 230 Cu In Conversion

All of the stock rebuild parts (water pump, fuel pump, oil pump, pistons, rings, seal kits, head gasket, bearings, stainless exhaust valves, intake valves, valve springs, etc.) came from Vintage Power Wagons.

I converted the original 218 cu. in. engine to a 230 cu. in. engine with a NOS 230 crank, used 230 rods, and 230 flywheel (for a total of 235 cu in with overbore).  These parts came from Vintage Power Wagons as well.
 

The 218 and 230 engine blocks are identical and are the same internally, aside from the crank, rods, and flywheel (the stroke is 1/4" longer on the 230).

http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com






tumbnail Finned Aluminum Head

The head is a new production part from Earl Edgerton.  The head has a 9 to 1 compression on 230 with stock pistons.

These heads are expensive, but are new.  The vintage heads are often warped or damaged and wind up costing as much or more once you pay to have milled and or repaired. 

Earl is also a cam grinder.  If you are looking for a performace cam for your flathead six, he is the guy for the job.  I had my cam ground locally, but now wish that I had sent it to Earl.

Contact Earl Edgerton at edgerton@pacbell.net







tumbnail ARP Head Studs

The head studs, nuts and Washers used on my engine are from ARP
.  These are the industry's best, and with the aluminum head, I didn't want to take any chances.  These are a component part, usually offered in a kit sold through retailers like Summit.  But the regular kits don't have enough for the MoPar flatty in one kit, and two kits are more $ than buying direct from ARP.

Call 800.826.3045 and ask for Kami.  The component part number for the stud is: AP3.750-1LB, these are 7/16-14x3.75" long. 

At the time I bought them, they were $4.90 for one stud, nut, and washer.  Multiply by 21 and you've spent $102.90. 

http://www.arp-bolts.com






tumbnail Dual Intake

The intake used on my engine is a Vintage Edmunds dual water heated intake found on Ebay, $190. 

Also look for vintage Fenton, Tattersfield, and Sharp.

Langdon's Stovebolt Six sells the still in production Offenhauser version (several types, not water heated) for around $180. 

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/index2.htm






tumbnail Carburetors, Headers, HEI Ignition

My carburetors are Holley 5200 progressive units.  The carbs, linkage, and aircleaner base plates are from Langdon's Stove Bolt Six. 


Tom Langdon is a very knowledgable engine guy, and is very happy to offer advice.  Most of the MoPar flathead stuff he sells isn't listed on his website, so give him a call. 

He is also now selling cast-iron fenton style headers for the 218/230 block, in the $300 range.   These weren't available at the time I bought the tube headers.  I'd like to change mine out at some point to the cast-iron headers as I think they are much better.

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/index2.htm






tumbnail HPC Performance Coatings

I had the tube headers from Langdon's ceramic coated by HPC Performance Coatings to keep them from rusting, inside and out.

 
http://www.hpcutah.com






tumbnail Obrien Truckers

My finned aluminum air cleaner cover and finned coil cover are from O'brien Truckers.

 
http://www.obrientruckers.com






tumbnail Remote Oil Filter

The remote oil filter is made by Flatattack Racing Products.  This filter looks like a cannister filter, but uses a standard spin-on filter inside.  Changing the filter is easy with no mess.

http://www.flatattackracing.com






tumbnail Chrome Alternator, Voltage Reducer

I converted my car to 12v negative ground.  I used a crome MoPar alternator and adapted the stock generator bracket for the mount. 

The only 6v electric gauge, the fuel gauge, is reduced from 12v to 6v with a Runtz voltage reducer. 

These parts were purchased from Speedway Motors.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com






tumbnail Rajah Spark Plug Wire Tips

These plug wire tips are from The Brillman Company.  They sell lots of vintage style wire and wire ends.

 
http://www.brillman.com






tumbnail Brake Parts, Motor Mounts

The Motor mounts and all of the stock replacement brake parts used on the car came from Kanter Auto Parts.  Kaner sells stock engine rebuild kits too, but the price is about the same as VPW's without the ability to mix and match parts as needed.  Kanter's kits are sold as complete kits only.

http://www.kanter.com






tumbnail Other Sources

George Asche, an old timer in PA, is fabricating dual intake and exhaust manifolds from your sent-in stock parts.  My ARCH RACE RIVAL, , has gone this route with his Desoto 251 flathead.  I haven't talked to George personally, but I understand he is a wealth of info on these flathead engines.  He builds engines, and rebuilds and sells overdrive transmissions too.  He doesn't use e-mail or the internet, so you'd have to call. Here's his contact info:

Asche Mechanic Distributors
George Asche
1693 Fertigs Road
Venus, Pennsylvania 16364
(814) 354-2621



Don Coatney has built a terrific 251 Desoto flathead six for his '48 Plymouth P-15.  He has documented his built with hunreds of photos that can be seen here:

Don Coatney P-15


Rusty Hope is a small outfit that is making dual intake and exhaust setups as well as disk brake conversion kits. 

http://www.rustyhope.com




 
Plymouth flathead six


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