Cincy ‘53 Willys Wagon 4x4 F134 Warn OD

Yes, good looking wagon. Detailed work.
And that toolbag....hmmm

JL

Been bad about updating this since mines a driver now. I did splurge for the jeepsterman extended capacity metal tank. It was a perfect fit, did require extending the float arm and of course I destroyed several before I got it right.

It's a nice tank and the only alternative is plastic. I went about 300 miles on each full tank but only put in about 18 gallons could have held a few more maybe...


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Driver over 400 miles round trip to red river gorge ky no issues even in the mountain grades


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Looks great! Very motivating. Where did you get the tool bag and WO hood ornament. These are items (I'm pretty cheap...) I'm willing to pay for...

The hood ornaments aren't too hard to find and the WO center is reproduced by all the usual suspects. I actually have a NOS one to swap out that still has the red painted lines too.

Now the tool bag was from a fellow forum member who shall remain nameless, but a hint, he is in Ohio and sells allot of nice stuff on eBay and has the nicest high dollar survivor early wagon with a jump seat. I simply couldn't let the tool bag go, I've thought about reproducing them, but I just couldn't bring myself around to idea of reselling Chinese tools.....Mine are USA made in Los Angeles and somehow never ever used brand new

I also scored a custom embroidered wagon vehicle cover and a factory spare tire cover too, I will be reproducing the spare tire cover for sure

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Was getting the wagon ready ready for the Willlys Reunion and cleaned up the motor, noticed an oil leak.

Decided to make an attempt at doing the rear main seal, in the vehicle and without dropping the crank or drivetrain.

It can be done but by myself It was a real bear, but the Sneaky Pete saved the day. I didn't even have to drop the crank or remove anything other than the oil pan, pulley guard and of course the rear bearing retainer.

My old style seal was neoprene so I ordered one and also a newer rope for backup and also a nos rope set just in case. The bearing retainer wiggled out with the bottom half of the oil seal attached, needle nose pliers and a chopstick made short work of the upper half and since the seal was identical to the new neoprene I that would be my first choice. After a bit of cleanup to the oil pan gasket surfaces, oil pan clean and respray, it was time to get after it.

It was clear pretty quickly that the new upper oil seal wasn't just plug and play. Even with the Sneaky Pete I just couldn't get the seal started onto the crank. Slept on it and decided to try the rope seals and they are much larger and even more impossible to pull through. Finally a buddy came by and somehow he held in the clutch while turning the motor by hand, while I simultaneously pulled the Sneaky Pete and drove the seal in with a chopstick. Once it starts going in, be careful not to let the seal move or bind if it does simply reverse crank direction. Once you get it going, don't pull it flush, I pushed it proud about a half inch so the seals don't align with the edge of the bearing plate and leak. A dab of sealant in the retainer groove and just a smudge on the corresponding retainer shoulder, assembly lube on the bearing and pre installing the lower oil seal proud the opposite end, it slipped right in and both rubber dowels go right in tight but all the way in and sticking out .5.

Always recondition your pan, respray, check surfaces and use a new cork gasket with Indian Shellac on the oil pan and a dab of silicon on where the gaps are under the front oil pan and pulley guard bolt holes. I also put a light coat on the block itself and let everything marinate for a few before installing carefully and watching for the gasket to just start to compress, if your doing it right you can hear the shellac working. Go slow and not much more than hand tight

Notice the internals of the motor have really cleaned up well after a few thousand miles with modern 10w30 oil. Now I'll switch to Rotella 30w permanently.

Test drive went well and I ran it for better than an hour, I did see a few drops right at the bottom of the bell housing but I'm hoping that was just from the cleanup and initial run in before the seal swells a bit...

Overall, while difficult, it's not impossible on the roadside....




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I have a problem my motor 226 leak oil

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Haven't updated this thread in awhile, since I have both a jeepster and a truck to finish. The jeepster chassis is done, but I have no desire to do the bodywork so it is going into long term storage while I get the truck together.

Ive driven the wagon about 2500 miles since the rear main seal replacement and it's leaking more and more. I suspect the crank is pitted too much and a rebuild is in order.

Since I don't have enough to do, when my machine guy offered some shop time on a weekend, I tore down an extra fhead and got it prepped for reassembly.

Got lucky as it doesn't look like it will need much work at all.




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is the 2nd picture paint on the block? or did it just get that clean?

That's a squeaky clean block and an almost clean head.


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damn. thats sweet.

Getting ready for Alaska


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Suspension replacement went very well, Walcks springs are the way to go without a doubt.

Long weekend getting ready to drop the new motor in, I got side tracked by some inner fender well cancer. Probably would have been easier to just remove the fender, but I did not want to ruin the paint seams. Mission creep is always an issue so let's see what else I can take apart. www.alaskaorrust.com


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Mission creep, now a NOS harness I picked in Toledo years ago. It's for a 226 OD but other than the wire lengths of the solenoid and voltage regulator it's identical for mine.

On a side note I'm concerned I might be missing some parts between the front engine plate, isolator and the frame bracket.

I've always had a feeling something wasn't right, the drivers side had a homemade adapter. My new motor has the correct tabs


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Anyone have feedback on the fhead motor mounts spacers and bracket


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Are you asking what a stock Willys would have between the F134 and the frame?
I can run outside and get a picture of each frame mount from my pickup (1952 F134) if you need it.

Please I'm not sure if there are two spacers between or only pass side


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Haven’t posted in forever, I needed a break after Alaska or Rust. I decided to rebuild my original motor and abandon the cursed 1800 mile failed rebuild.

My motor is almost ready and I’m gonna paint it this military industrial sea foam green. I’ve always loved the color even though when I was in the Army it drove me mad.

So here’s a test on my expanded capacity metal tank from the jeepster man from a few years back, the float adjustment just was never quite right. I cleaned the tank and filled it with water, wired it up and got it dialed in this time.

While waiting for the motor I bored and bushed both pedals, brake and clutch rods, lever and arm. These were the only items left mechanically untouched by my own hands so hopefully I’ve got some trouble free miles ahead once the new motor goes back in.




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Looks great Scott!

Nice[emoji3]


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