1948 Willys Pickup

i have thought maybe use a stock wagon gasket and cut just a little bigger and seal the cut. also i might ck out a hot rod forum as those guys do a lot of this might have some answers there.
Steel rubber products also has the same window seal by the foot. Like you didnt realize the widow sections varied so much front to rear yikes !! but finally i am about to start welding my wagon window pieces together
 
I got the rubber for my wagon by the foot at soffseal. You could just forego the rubber seal and just glue it in from the inside. This would be a cleaner and more water tight solution. Sorry I dont recall the part #, but they were kind enough to send me samples of a few profiles in their catalog.

BTW, glueing together doesnt work well. Needs to be vulcanized together... (melted)

https://www.soffseal.com/store/main.aspx
 
It's been awhile....I've had low motivation as my shooting hobby and my family have been getting most of my attention. I did get the chassis to a point I felt good about it though and brought the cab back into the shop for a few small things prior to mounting it. Mostly sealing things and primer here and there. I did stare at one particular section last night for a bit trying to think about how to keep out moisture and wondered if anyone had any ideas. The first photo shows it, am I overthinking this? They were open from the factory.

The next little group shows the front axle moved forward 3" and how that was accomplished.




Finally the steering box tapped for hydro-assist and ready to go. Still need a pitman arm and to build a drag link but it'll happen later on.
 
I left mine open just primed the crap out of the area and used Raptor liner on the bottom side of cab should be better than factory, what brand and where did you get the spring hangers ?
 
The front hangers are from Barnes 4wd. I added the angle iron and gussets. For $25 a pair that's hard to beat. Rear shackles are RuffStuff Specialties.
 
Well one more small victory towards going onto the frame the other night. I was able to get the bottom of the cab seam sealed and sprayed with a high build primer. I'll be sealing it and then bed lining later on. Just wanted to get it covered to keep the rust at bay for now.



So, one step forward and two back!! I'm claiming a mulligan on this deal. When I first replaced the floor and trans tunnel, I was planning on using a 700r4 which is much smaller than my 4L80e. I've been fretting that when I go to plop the cab on that it won't fit so I chopped her out!. I want the cab as low as possible on the frame and I'm also wanting to be able to move the cab forward or backward to get the best fit. Filling the metal back in is the easy part.
 
What frame and what axle are you using? (ie it appears you outboarded the springs is the reason for the question). I am about to have to outboard my springs on my willys frame to mate up to a wagoner axle.
 
cj847 said:
What frame and what axle are you using? (ie it appears you outboarded the springs is the reason for the question). I am about to have to outboard my springs on my willys frame to mate up to a wagoner axle.
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GMC Suburban frame with 1988 Chevy 1 ton axles. The springs are outboard from the factory.
 
Finally have something to post other than boring welding pics. I haven't been as active as I should be, but this last weekend got me excited to keep plugging away! The shop my buddy works at allowed me to drag all my garbage down there and use the lift......a godsend! So, the good news is the cab is on. The bad news is I miscalculated my wheelbase so now I either need to move the axle back, or I need to stretch the frame.....again. Oh well, I had to laugh at myself. It's just more cutting and welding. Another thing to pop up was having to cut more of my floor out to clear the transfer case. I wanted the body to sit LOW on the frame so out came the plasma torch.




 
Surprise #2: When I got the truck back home, it wouldn't fit into the garage (something I was concerned about). Quickly got on a classified site and had some bare rims the next day to get it back in there. It cleared by one inch! HA!!


Lowrider!!
 
Nice progress! Which wheels don't line up, front or rear? Are you going to shorten the bed? Maybe go full bed and lengthen the frame? At any rate it looks great Bill!
 
Dave's said:
Nice progress! Which wheels don't line up, front or rear? Are you going to shorten the bed? Maybe go full bed and lengthen the frame? At any rate it looks great Bill!
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Thank you, and yes....slightly embarrassing about the where the wheels ended up. S__t happens!
 
Bill,

I am also building a 1948 Pick up. The front half is 1985 Blazer grafted to the original Willys pick up frame to keep the correct wheelbase and bed mounts. I also wanted to get the body lower. The issue I ran into was when I mounted the front end to the cab the lower section of the grill hit the frame. You may want to check this on your truck before you get much deeper and have to change things again.

Dave
 
indian301 said:
Bill,

I am also building a 1948 Pick up. The front half is 1985 Blazer grafted to the original Willys pick up frame to keep the correct wheelbase and bed mounts. I also wanted to get the body lower. The issue I ran into was when I mounted the front end to the cab the lower section of the grill hit the frame. You may want to check this on your truck before you get much deeper and have to change things again.


Dave
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I'll be checking that very thing here soon. Plus, I want to see it with the front end on to fuel the fire some more.
 
Metalguy said:
Surprise #2: When I got the truck back home, it wouldn't fit into the garage (something I was concerned about). Quickly got on a classified site and had some bare rims the next day to get it back in there. It cleared by one inch! HA!!
Click to expand...

Ha ha! Last time a saw a vehicle riding on straight steel wheels was when I watched Steve Martin in "The Jerk"!
 
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