Willys 101 - 1961 Willys truck build in Michigan

As most can tell, I too am working my way through restoring a Willys Truck with my son. I've learned many new skills in the last year and a half. Replacing brakes, removing steering wheel, installing shocks, removing the pitman arm, the list is endless. I will have many more questions, so I figured I might as well keep them all in one spot and post periodic progress.

My latest challenge is removing everything from my 61' cab and replacing it with a 54' cab.

Can anyone share some insight on how to remove the choke from the dash? Thanks

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I finally stuck my head under the rusty dash again and found the clip holding it on. Save the effort for a harder challenge. [emoji3]

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Ready for cab removal!!

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Where are you in Michigan? Not that I would stalk you, but if you are close, maybe I could be of help. Ted

Why are you swapping cabs?
Is the '54 in better shape?

Much better shape. The bottom of the 61' all around is essentially gone. I don't even have to unbolt it from the frame. I'm in Kalamazoo. Thanks for the offer, but I'm good with getting the cab off.

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tnestell said:

Where are you in Michigan? Not that I would stalk you, but if you are close, maybe I could be of help. Ted

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Well Ted, if you ever have the need to work on one, just come on down since I know yours never needs work and, mine always does. haha

Cab off! It was a little dicey, but the plan came together!

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We've been scrapping off 55 years of gunk for the past few days.

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WoW!...must be nice to have a 10 FT ceiling and have a steel I beam with a overhead trolley winch on it! I wound up finding a post bout how to build a lifting adapter that attachs to your engine hoist to lift your cab off it does work i built one out of scrap crap i had laying bout ......... i done it this once to see it if worked ...it does but i need to rebuild it as i made out of too light a steel that is required as i bent one of the lifting support arms during the attempt so i put it back down on frame and its been there ever since now truck runs and drives but good to know i can do this again at later date if needed.


Larry

Larry,
That's pretty cool! Yeah, the 10ft ceilings are working out very well. I'm so glad I built them that high.

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We got all the fluids drained this weekend. Oil, fuel, coolant, transmission. Even dropped the oil pan. I could hand loosen 14 of the 18 bolts. That might explain some of the oil leaks. [emoji848] Now for the imfamous seal replacement.

My son even did a test fit of the chrome cross bars on the grille, we picked up from George @ Montana Overland, last summer!


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Larry Messing said:

WoW!...must be nice to have a 10 FT ceiling and have a steel I beam with a overhead trolley winch on it! I wound up finding a post bout how to build a lifting adapter that attachs to your engine hoist to lift your cab off it does work i built one out of scrap crap i had laying bout ......View attachment 38974View attachment 38975View attachment 38976View attachment 38977... i done it this once to see it if worked ...it does but i need to rebuild it as i made out of too light a steel that is required as i bent one of the lifting support arms during the attempt so i put it back down on frame and its been there ever since now truck runs and drives but good to know i can do this again at later date if needed.


Larry

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That's how I got my cab off! Kind of a spiderweb of straps inside to keep it from flipping. I like your idea better[emoji1360]


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Yeah i stumbled across that post while looking for something else and thought,... Wow that is really neat thing to have! i have a 3 ton rigid frame engine hoist that should handle that no problem! if they built one so can I!....and looking at it seemed simple enough so after studying the pics of how to build it i then built one out of scrap steel i had laying bout ...as you can see....in the pic you see one of the arms is bending under the weight of the cab! Ah Sh*T! so i lifted it up snapped a few quick pics then set it down before it broke and fell down! yes it worked but needs to be reinforced out of heavier steel stock like box tubing rather then thin angle iron i had layin bout. i initally was looking to try to maybe modify the build to be more of a forklift style and pick it up solidly under the cab rather than slinging it off lifting arms and then slide under the rear of the bed and lift it off same way but it would require way more work to build and figure out how to keep things level while lifting so i built it to match pics just happy to know this can be done when needed at later date. say maybe in year or so when truck gets ready to go to paint i can pull cab and do body work finish welds that sort of thing.




Larry

The nightmare has begun on the main seal replacement. I started out very confident about taking it all apart and tapping that rear seal out like so many others have written. Well, it's not going so well. I got to the filler block and I'm thinking this is "warped" like do many others. Or should it look this way? Got to the main seal and tried to nudge it free. No dice. I'm thinking its a rope seal? Now what? Do I have to buy the "sneaky pete"?
Lower the cam? Ugh. If that wasn't enough, I'm looking at the oil pan seal and it appears sandwiched under the front filler block? How the heck do I get that off??? I think I might get access to the bolts, but the cam is in the way for some. How can I rotate it?



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Unfortunately that block is warped , as was mine. I looked around quite a bit and was able to find a replacement from a member in this group of great guys and gals. I was able to get out and put in the the front oil pan gasket by loosening the front block allen head screws as well as the 3 bolts on the front lower timing chain cover. It loosened just enough to slide the front of the gasket under the front block. Good luck!

Just out of curiosity, what causes these blocks to warp? Is it improper installation, wear and tear, or a 1 time use type of thing?

I'm sure others will chime in, but I would think it was meant to be reusable. I'm just not sure why they made it out of a crappy potash type material. Probably warps as a result of the malleable metal combined with heat, or improper installation over the neoprene seal..

I've heard that all castings warp to some degree over time. I know from experience, that engine blocks and heads certainly warp along with cast valve covers and even the strangely shaped bases for windshield wiper arms from many "newer " vehicles... The filler block in my Willys's engine was still straight but sooner or later someone should make (expensive) new ones - they are becoming rare.

pavel6 said:

I've heard that all castings warp to some degree over time. I know from experience, that engine blocks and heads certainly warp along with cast valve covers and even the strangely shaped bases for windshield wiper arms from many "newer " vehicles... The filler block in my Willys's engine was still straight but sooner or later someone should make (expensive) new ones - they are becoming rare.

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I saw an old Post that someone actually straighted there's out. Not sure how, but it's worth a try until I can find a donor.

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