GrandWillys Project

Wow[emoji1360]nice work!


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Pivnic said:

Hi Marcus. Fantastic, Amazing work! Your Knowledge and Talent on all this is Stellar!! Is there Anything that You CAN'T Do?? Great Work Man!! Pivnic

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X 2! :cheers:

Many thanks for taking the time to like and comment.

It's all in the details. They take forever. Your patience with details is resulting in a first class build.

Thanks for sharing all the details and photos for those of us trying to build.

Duane

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Many thanks Duane.

Just noticed this thread has had over an incredible 300,000 views! More than any other forum it is on.

Now remember that I want the whole of the interior to look like it was from the donor Grand Cherokee year of 2008. I don't want bits and pieces from different eras if possible, but to be a cohesive design. Unfortunately there is no way the donor door cards are going to work so will do my best to use parts from it



Want to start with the interior door handles. They are plastic welded in with 8 melted over studs. The door card even has a relay and ECU box for the mirror, central locking and window controls. On the other drivers side card also for seat position memory! I'll be fitting all that as well later on.



Got the drivers side handle free using a spot weld cutter type grind drill bit in a thread tap wrench handle. My idea is to mount this to face of the inside steel panel of the door rather than the card itself.



So to mount this I will remove all the ridges on the back. They are not needed anyway as the steel door panel is stronger than the plastic door card it was on.



To clear the window I need to shorten the link arm. Works out well as this setup gave to much travel to match the bearclaw release lever.



Lever shortened and redrilled for the link. I did have to swap the lock link piece to the other side though so it could pivot more.



I had hoped to mount the handle behind the window guide track so the link rod didn't have to pass by it. The height gave a straighter pull to the release lever too, but unfortunately the clamps that hold the window to the lifting carriage got in the way.



Twisting around with the handle nearer the lock was awkward so moved it closer to the hinge. I didn't what to cut through the pressed ribbing as it is important to keep the area near the hinges stiff.



This was the only place it could go in the end and still be comfortable to use.



The handle fits right in without interfering with the window



The rod is pretty long so I use thicker gauge and then just ground the ends down to fit into the link locks. I had to step it inwards from the handle arm so it could go between the window guide track and the inner panel. Did have to remove one of the old armrest mounts so it could pass by. I tried a big step up vertically as well in the rod first, but there was too much flex with the extra bends.



Fitted into the lock release lever. Same one that the outside handle button connects too.



Can see the step to make it go close to the inner panel to get past the track.



Another bit done that took longer than it should, but that often happens.



I felt it still needed a little more refinement. It worked fine but you barely operated the handle and it would release the door. So rather than move the link even closer to the pivot point of the handle, I thought it would be best if I increased the length of the release lever at the lock end. Tried a couple of different lengths and found 40mm-1.5" longer worked the best. Now it has normal range of movement at the handle plus it reduced the angle of the link between the two ends. If you extend the release lever at the lock to too long, it increases the effort on the door button to release from the outside.

Hello Marcus. Great work with your Door Details and Inner Guts etc. I was wondering... When you get you Truck all 'Done', are YOU going to do the Paint Job or send it to a professional painter? Pivnic

Gojeep said:

Now remember that I want the whole of the interior to look like it was from the donor Grand Cherokee year of 2008. I don't want bits and pieces from different eras if possible, but to be a cohesive design. Unfortunately there is no way the donor door cards are going to work so will do my best to use parts from it

Want to start with the interior door handles. They are plastic welded in with 8 melted over studs. The door card even has a relay and ECU box for the mirror, central locking and window controls. On the other drivers side card also for seat position memory! I'll be fitting all that as well later on.

Got the drivers side handle free using a spot weld cutter type grind drill bit in a thread tap wrench handle. My idea is to mount this to face of the inside steel panel of the door rather than the card itself.

So to mount this I will remove all the ridges on the back. They are not needed anyway as the steel door panel is stronger than the plastic door card it was on.

To clear the window I need to shorten the link arm. Works out well as this setup gave to much travel to match the bearclaw release lever.

Lever shortened and redrilled for the link. I did have to swap the lock link piece to the other side though so it could pivot more.

I had hoped to mount the handle behind the window guide track so the link rod didn't have to pass by it. The height gave a straighter pull to the release lever too, but unfortunately the clamps that hold the window to the lifting carriage got in the way.

Twisting around with the handle nearer the lock was awkward so moved it closer to the hinge. I didn't what to cut through the pressed ribbing as it is important to keep the area near the hinges stiff.

This was the only place it could go in the end and still be comfortable to use.

The handle fits right in without interfering with the window

The rod is pretty long so I use thicker gauge and then just ground the ends down to fit into the link locks. I had to step it inwards from the handle arm so it could go between the window guide track and the inner panel. Did have to remove one of the old armrest mounts so it could pass by. I tried a big step up vertically as well in the rod first, but there was too much flex with the extra bends.

Fitted into the lock release lever. Same one that the outside handle button connects too.

Can see the step to make it go close to the inner panel to get past the track.

Another bit done that took longer than it should, but that often happens.

I felt it still needed a little more refinement. It worked fine but you barely operated the handle and it would release the door. So rather than move the link even closer to the pivot point of the handle, I thought it would be best if I increased the length of the release lever at the lock end. Tried a couple of different lengths and found 40mm-1.5" longer worked the best. Now it has normal range of movement at the handle plus it reduced the angle of the link between the two ends. If you extend the release lever at the lock to too long, it increases the effort on the door button to release from the outside.

Click to expand...

Again time consuming details to make it right. I was fortunate enough to go to SEMA last week. I opened the door of a $120,000.00, 55 Chevy, (with permission) and I had to bite my tongue. The latches worked like worn out 60 year old latches and the door dropped at least 1/2 inch once it cleared the latch pins.

Your efforts are beyond typical and I for one applaud you. I think your build and a few others have slowed me down from slapping together a trail rig. I am working with Grand Wagoneer latches. I am laying out my third version of an interior release mechanism.

Great patience. I may have to fly around the world to get a chance to see this thing in person when you get it done.

Duane

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Pivnic said:

Hello Marcus. Great work with your Door Details and Inner Guts etc. I was wondering... When you get you Truck all 'Done', are YOU going to do the Paint Job or send it to a professional painter? Pivnic

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Going to have it professionally painted. Probably why I put so much time in getting things right as worried they might not take as much care and missing minor details!

Broken Wagon said:

Again time consuming details to make it right. I was fortunate enough to go to SEMA last week. I opened the door of a $120,000.00, 55 Chevy, (with permission) and I had to bite my tongue. The latches worked like worn out 60 year old latches and the door dropped at least 1/2 inch once it cleared the latch pins.

Your efforts are beyond typical and I for one applaud you. I think your build and a few others have slowed me down from slapping together a trail rig. I am working with Grand Wagoneer latches. I am laying out my third version of an interior release mechanism.

Great patience. I may have to fly around the world to get a chance to see this thing in person when you get it done.

Duane

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Thank you so much Duane.

Hi Marcus,
Wow! I've been away for a year -- really fun and inspiring to catch up with all your progress!
The quality of work you're doing matches or exceeds some of the modifications (being done) to our C-130H's where I work.

Bonus seeing your info about installing english wiper motors -- I've got the set up from a mid '80s Jag and now know to check that the sweep might be different for the passenger and driver side. Thanks for documenting all that!

Cheers!
David

Nice you had a chance to catch up Dave. Would have taken a while to read all that!

Glad it was of use to you as well.

Marcus,
Post #1390 pic #8 your small "U" shape door rod you made i just realized you have a double style rod clip, what vehicle did that come on no luck with a search.
And do you plan on using a external door lock in the event no power and its all closed up ?
And thanks so much for sharing your door mods i had gathered all the latches and such but didnt want to tackle the internal linkage, this is going to save me plenty of head scratching along with others.

Bruce4310TX said:

Marcus,
Post #1390 pic #8 your small "U" shape door rod you made i just realized you have a double style rod clip, what vehicle did that come on no luck with a search.
And do you plan on using a external door lock in the event no power and its all closed up ?
And thanks so much for sharing your door mods i had gathered all the latches and such but didnt want to tackle the internal linkage, this is going to save me plenty of head scratching along with others.

Click to expand...

It is actually 2 normal link clips with one of them having the clip part cut off. Didn't need them both as the one above is so close, it stops it from coming out. There is not enough room either.

I was going to do a key lock on the drivers side but the depth to the glass is too short. If the car battery is dead than getting in won't allow me to start it anyway. I will have remote access to the battery so can charge from there should it happen. If the remote battery fails, I thought the best thing is to simply keep a spare battery for it stored somewhere on the truck so I can get to it if needed. Safer than hiding a key as no good on its own to anyone else.

Well something is missing!



What is it doing out there?



I had put the cab over to one side with the camper behind it and suddenly it looked like I'd done a mock up!



If you squint it looks like an good expedition vehicle.





This is what took the cabs place. This is Christos's Ratrod project that he has built from a 1948 Willys Truck cab with a 1950-53 front clip. 2wd with a Holden independent front end. The easy fun part of a 4" roof chop has been half done by a panel shop. Mainly just bady tacked together at this stage!



Very nice blown mouse motor.


I won't be working on my project until I finish fixing and then finishing this, so no more updates here for a while. I start a seperate thread on this elsewhere and link to it later here.

Door trims are next on the list of things to do. One set I already stripped of paint had hardly a scratch on it. The second set you can see they must have driven a lot with the window down and the elbow out the window. Get fined for doing that here now a days!



I needed the door lock button to come through the trim so tried a few different ways. The rear most one was using the donor piece but it jammed the button as the angle was not right. Tried a grommet and raised the metal to get it flatter, but still didn't like the look. So think I will go with the closest one with the flared hole.



To make the flare I practised on some scrap first. Ground the top of a tube, that had the inside diameter I wanted, to match the curve of the trim.



Then simply drove a rope splicing spike through the hole. Would be 35 years since I learnt this craft when doing my farrier training! Could also use a podgy or round bar shaped to suit as well.



Looks better than just a hole with a sharp edge.



The hole was drilled 10mm-3/8" with the final hole size of 13mm-1/2". I tapped the spike in a little from the backside as well to turn the flare outwards so an edge wouldn't dig into the button.



I think this gives a neater finish than the grommets.



Using a different frame for the front and rear sections to make up the 115mm-4.5" longer doors, meant the mounting holes in the middle were unevenly spaced. Originally thought I could live with that when I cut them this way, but turns out I can't!



Using my trusty old cobbler's hammer, I hammered the flare flat from the inside. Also noted the now smaller hole size to help with making a new depression later.



A quick tack over a big old brass cable lug fills the hole. You can see how the underside of the top piece comes out using this technique.



Pieces clamped down to the bench to keep it all aligned while welding.



Now to make the new counter sink depression match the factory ones. I used the centre punch pictured and hammered it over a bar I drilled to match the outside diameter of the flare I wanted.



The bar was drilled offset slightly to still centre under the hole between the trim edges. Bar was ground to match the trim and held in the vice like the lock button hole.



The trim was also placed face down on the bench and hammered with the drilled bar to make the flare more distinct. Factory flare above with test piece below.



Holes now evenly spaced.



I noticed the doors would change alignment too easily since the piece between the inner and outer sides was cutout for the one piece window conversion. I needed a way to brace the ends around the back of the window channel so I made up this piece to do it.



I fitted a similar piece at both ends even though it was only braced at the front before. This was welded in later and it stopped all the movement I had and the doors hold their shape now.



Trim now finished. I also added an extra mounting screw along the top as well. Needed to weld in a saddle into the frame for the screw to go into, like the stock ones had, otherwise the screw would go right through to the outside!

Is the rat rod or the grand willys going to eliminate the vent wing window? I am trying to figure out what to do in the front corner as I would like to leave enough room for the door check. It seems like there has to be a bit of solid added if you are going to have a glass channel in the front. (I hope that isn't too confusing). Can you point me to it if you have already done it? Thanks.

He went over that just a few pages back.

cj847 said:

Is the rat rod or the grand willys going to eliminate the vent wing window? I am trying to figure out what to do in the front corner as I would like to leave enough room for the door check. It seems like there has to be a bit of solid added if you are going to have a glass channel in the front. (I hope that isn't too confusing). Can you point me to it if you have already done it? Thanks.

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One piece windows Gary. Been covered about halfway down this page. http://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/showthread.php?1041-Grand-Willys-Project/page141

thanks guys, very helpful.

This is the harness from the donor I need to add. There is no way the rubber part will squeeze down to the 5mm gap I have between the door and the A pillar, nor do I want such big holes in either side.



My idea is to have a hole only big enough for the round corrugated part to slide in and out of on the A pillar side. By removing the plastic housing the boot ends fitted on, the plugs pass through sideways and the wide part of the boot fits through once rolled up.



I have drilled a hole 14mm-9/16" smaller than the round part of the boot in the A pillar. I made this tool to flare the hole.



The slot fits over the edge of the hole like this.



Then you pull up a little bit at a time and work your way around the hole. The T handle works well making sure the slot is always bottomed out while pulling on it. I used the small mallet to help it around as the flare got over about 45*. Could also hit against the underside of handle to pull the hole level if it sank in at all.



Once nearly there I tapped through the hammer which was the size I wanted in the end. Helped round the hole a bit more too.



It left a 7mm-1/4" flare which will stop the corrugated part of the boot getting caught as it goes in and out while using the door.



Once the flare was finished I was able to pass a holesaw right through and drill out the other side of the A pillar to get the wires and plugs through. So the hole at the start was 29mm-1.1/8". The 10mm-3/8" slot opened up the hole to 43mm-1.11/16", 14mm bigger. I had done a test hole first to see what I would end up with. But the slot needs to be half the depth you want the diametre to increase by, plus about 2.5 times the material thickness.



With the plugs all the way through the A pillar and the wide part of the boot inside it, you can push and pull the boot in and out even on the angles it will see with the door opening and closing without it catching.



Now the door side I don't want to move so I want the final hole size to be the small diameter of the corrugated grooves. I am still going to make a small flare so the edge of the hole doesn't cut through the boot over time. Notice the angled cut along with the other one on top.



The angled cut is so I can start the flare and clear the hinge and the edge of the door. I switch to the other slot once about halfway done flaring.



So this hole was 25mm-1" to start with it ended up at 33mm-1.5/16", 8mm-5/16" bigger. This was with a 5mm-3/16" slot and with a 4mm-5/32" deep flare.



With the big oval part of the boot inside the door and the depth of the flare inside the narrowest part of the boot grooves, it sits there firmly.



A this is how it looks when all in place. Can also just make out one of the plugs in the cavity inside the kick panel area once it has passed right through the A pillar. To remove the door I simply unplug from there and pull the boot through followed by the plugs and only takes a minute or so.