agne2520
Well Oiled
Nice solution. Makes you wonder why the outfit you bought the tank from, couldn't have provided the rings that you had to develop. You should take a picture and send it to them and shame them a bit.
55/59 Pickup/Wagoneer build
- Thread starter LCJP
- Start date
You know, I had been thinking of doing that, and your suggestion motivated me to do it. I just sent a friendly, constructive email to the gentleman I ordered it from. I recognize that he isn't the manufacturer but I figured he may not realize how bad the product he's selling is. It'll be interesting to see if I hear anything back.
agne2520
Well Oiled
You may very well have helped the manufacturer and customers down the road. Will be interesting to see if they reply.
Most of my work the last couple weeks involved plug wire routing and frame crack repair. See this thread for more on the frame repair. Here is the finished repair:
I also did some work making custom length spark plug wires and re-routing them. When I bought the truck, the plug wires were routed over the valve covers and exhaust manifolds, which is ugly and leaves a lot of room for the wires to burn or chafe:
This engine has the “ram horn” style manifolds which route up and over the spark plugs, rather than below. So I did some research and it turns out the wires should have been routed behind the heads to get around the exhaust manifolds, then down along the oil pan and back up to the front two cylinders on each side. Before I realized how they were supposed to be routed, I bought a Moroso kit for routing over the valve covers. Of course the brackets were useless, but the plastic clips for holding the wires would still work, so I had to make some brackets to bolt to the back of the engine using the bell housing bolts:
After installing the heat shields I mentioned a while back, here’s the final product. It’s much cleaner and the wires are now safe from the heat of the exhaust manifolds and chafing on anything else:
I’ve also been putting a lot of thought into what to do about seats. The truck came with an old bench seat, probably out of the Wagoneer, and two bucket seats probably out of a late model car. None of which had any kind of mounting provisions, and I didn’t like the look or fit of either. So I’ve been doing some research and realized that some GM SUVs have third row seats with integrated shoulder belts. I thought this would be a great way to get seat belts without having to cut up the B-pillar. So I found this set of seats out of a Cadillac Escalade for a decent price so I picked them up figuring if they don’t work I can probably re-sell them fairly easily and maybe even make a buck. I am pleasantly surprised how well they fit, and I even gained some leg room. Now I just have to figure out how to mount them.
I also did some work making custom length spark plug wires and re-routing them. When I bought the truck, the plug wires were routed over the valve covers and exhaust manifolds, which is ugly and leaves a lot of room for the wires to burn or chafe:
This engine has the “ram horn” style manifolds which route up and over the spark plugs, rather than below. So I did some research and it turns out the wires should have been routed behind the heads to get around the exhaust manifolds, then down along the oil pan and back up to the front two cylinders on each side. Before I realized how they were supposed to be routed, I bought a Moroso kit for routing over the valve covers. Of course the brackets were useless, but the plastic clips for holding the wires would still work, so I had to make some brackets to bolt to the back of the engine using the bell housing bolts:
After installing the heat shields I mentioned a while back, here’s the final product. It’s much cleaner and the wires are now safe from the heat of the exhaust manifolds and chafing on anything else:
I’ve also been putting a lot of thought into what to do about seats. The truck came with an old bench seat, probably out of the Wagoneer, and two bucket seats probably out of a late model car. None of which had any kind of mounting provisions, and I didn’t like the look or fit of either. So I’ve been doing some research and realized that some GM SUVs have third row seats with integrated shoulder belts. I thought this would be a great way to get seat belts without having to cut up the B-pillar. So I found this set of seats out of a Cadillac Escalade for a decent price so I picked them up figuring if they don’t work I can probably re-sell them fairly easily and maybe even make a buck. I am pleasantly surprised how well they fit, and I even gained some leg room. Now I just have to figure out how to mount them.
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
If you can make tracks workout, those will be looking sweet!@Most of my work the last couple weeks involved plug wire routing and frame crack repair. See this thread for more on the frame repair. Here is the finished repair
I also did some work making custom length spark plug wires and re-routing them. When I bought the truck, the plug wires were routed over the valve covers and exhaust manifolds, which is ugly and leaves a lot of room for the wires to burn or chafe.
View attachment 42962
This engine has the “ram horn” style manifoldswhich route up and over the spark plugs, rather than below. So I did someresearch and it turns out the wires should have been routed behind the heads toget around the exhaust manifolds, then down along the oil pan and back up tothe front two cylinders on each side. Before I realized how they were supposedto be routed, I bought a Moroso kit for routing over the valve covers. Ofcourse the brackets were useless, but the plastic clips for holding the wireswould still work, so I had to make some brackets to bolt to the back of theengine using the bell housing bolts.
View attachment 42963
After installing the heat shields I mentioned a while back, here’s the final product. It’s much cleaner and the wires are now safe from the heat of the exhaust manifolds and chafing on anything else.
View attachment 42964
View attachment 42965
I’ve also been putting a lot of thought into what to do about seats. The truck came with an old bench seat, probably out of the Wagoneer, and two bucket seats probably out of a late model car. None of which had any kind of mounting provisions, and I didn’t like the look or fit of either. So I’ve been doing some research and realized that some GM SUVs have third row seats with integrated shoulder belts. I thought this would be a great way to get seat belts without having to cut up the B-pillar. So I found this set of seats out of a Cadillac Escalade for a decent price so I picked them up figuring if they don’t work I can probably re-sell them fairly easily and maybe even make a buck. I am pleasantly surprised how well they fit, and I even gained some leg room. Now I just have to figure out how to mount them.
View attachment 42967
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Not much work the last month or so but I'm finally back at it. As I've mentioned, this "Phase 1" of the project is to get the truck into a safe running condition so I can put some miles on before tearing it down to fix everything the right way. It's also a way for me to learn what the right way is going to be. Case in point: Yesterday, I tore into the dash to rip out all the old stuff that previous owners have modified (and mangled) over the years. The dash, unfortunately, had a massive hole cut out. I got a replacement cluster from Kaiser Willys and I'm hacking together some mounting provisions so I can get my speedo, fuel and temp gauges hooked up. As always, it's not going to be pretty but it should work for now.
The question this raises is: when I go to repair the hole in the dash for good, how do these gauge clusters normally install? By the way it's trimmed, it looks like it should install from the back, but how in the world are you supposed to physically install it from below, then make all the connections under the dash? Am I missing something? If not, instead of repairing this by welding in new metal, I may try to make a panel to go over it that is removable and holds all the gauges to make installing them easier in the long run. Since it's already hacked up, I wouldn't feel too bad not putting it back to stock.
Thoughts?
The question this raises is: when I go to repair the hole in the dash for good, how do these gauge clusters normally install? By the way it's trimmed, it looks like it should install from the back, but how in the world are you supposed to physically install it from below, then make all the connections under the dash? Am I missing something? If not, instead of repairing this by welding in new metal, I may try to make a panel to go over it that is removable and holds all the gauges to make installing them easier in the long run. Since it's already hacked up, I wouldn't feel too bad not putting it back to stock.
Thoughts?
Yes it installs from the back. I left my wires a little long so I could make connections before installing it (full rewire with painless kit). In you situation, I would do like you suggest and make a panel that all the gages could mount to and save yourself the backache.
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
I am most likely going to use a panel as well. By the time my AC/heater box and mixing plenum go in, the underside of the dash will be pretty hard to get to.
In your case, the panel would be the easier route. Take the simple path when it appears. Your over all project is massive.
Best of luck,
Duane
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
In your case, the panel would be the easier route. Take the simple path when it appears. Your over all project is massive.
Best of luck,
Duane
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Major milestone today! I have some pictures and a progress update to write but I wanted to share that the Willys backed out of the driveway, drove up the street, around the circle and back into the garage today! No leaks, temp seemed okay, brakes worked well, and I was sitting in a seat that was bolted to the floor. Amazing! Still a bunch of work to do before I put tags on it and drive around town (and then of course the multi-year tear down and rebuild to follow) but progress is progress!
Pivnic
Well Oiled
Hello Luke. Congrats on reaching the "First Test Drive" Milestone! That is a good Milestone as now you have a Running Willys Truck! Great News! Pivnic
Well all, I think I've decided to sell my project. Since I got it running I haven't done much more to it. I've been thinking about what my goals are and my motivation level for taking on a project of this size. Honestly, I think it's a bigger project than I want to tackle. Also, being on the tall side, I'm concerned about leg room and comfort level on long drives. That would be a lot of work to have a truck I don't want to drive.
I've also been considering that since it is in a running drivable state, now is probably time to sell it, rather than taking it apart, cutting it up and getting tired of it and trying to sell it then in pieces. I'm going to take it to the Union Mills Jeep Gathering and see what kind of interest I get.
Im curious if anyone has any thoughts as to what I might ask for it. I know that's a tough question, just looking for thoughts. What would you pay for it if this was what you want?
Quick recap, I believe it's a 59 cab on a 1970ish Wagoneer chassis with a Chevy 350 and TH400 trans. The body has some rust issues in the floors and corners and the rockers were replaced poorly. The fenders are okay but the tail sections have been removed. It has a flat bed but I believe it was originally a standard pickup bed. The interior is gutted and needs basically everything. I have a new gauge cluster from Omix-Ada but the original dash needs to be put back to stock for it to mount properly.
It has a complete new fuel system including a replacement plastic tank (for the Wagoneer chassis). It also has a new Edelbrock 650cfm carb and Performer intake.
It runs well and with power brakes and steering it feels good on the road. I've had it up close to 60mph and it feels stable and tracks straight. It just needs a ton of work to be reliable and truly road worthy.
Any thoughts on an asking price?
Thanks all!
I've also been considering that since it is in a running drivable state, now is probably time to sell it, rather than taking it apart, cutting it up and getting tired of it and trying to sell it then in pieces. I'm going to take it to the Union Mills Jeep Gathering and see what kind of interest I get.
Im curious if anyone has any thoughts as to what I might ask for it. I know that's a tough question, just looking for thoughts. What would you pay for it if this was what you want?
Quick recap, I believe it's a 59 cab on a 1970ish Wagoneer chassis with a Chevy 350 and TH400 trans. The body has some rust issues in the floors and corners and the rockers were replaced poorly. The fenders are okay but the tail sections have been removed. It has a flat bed but I believe it was originally a standard pickup bed. The interior is gutted and needs basically everything. I have a new gauge cluster from Omix-Ada but the original dash needs to be put back to stock for it to mount properly.
It has a complete new fuel system including a replacement plastic tank (for the Wagoneer chassis). It also has a new Edelbrock 650cfm carb and Performer intake.
It runs well and with power brakes and steering it feels good on the road. I've had it up close to 60mph and it feels stable and tracks straight. It just needs a ton of work to be reliable and truly road worthy.
Any thoughts on an asking price?
Thanks all!
Gmhowell
Bigger Hammer
I’m hesitant to offer a suggestion as I may take a quick peek if we run into each other there. But...
A couple grand? Like two.
A couple grand? Like two.
Broken Wagon
Well Oiled
Bummer that you have to change directions on it. Best of luck.
No suggestions on pricing. The fact it is running makes a huge difference. I have bought 6 Willys in my life. One ran. LOL
Duane
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
No suggestions on pricing. The fact it is running makes a huge difference. I have bought 6 Willys in my life. One ran. LOL
Duane
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk