Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Found this one the web today.
Time to work through the steps.
Time to work through the steps.
My 1957 L6-226 Wagon Build.
- Thread starter Flinthillsben
- Start date
indian john
Sharpest Tool
Found this one the web today.
Time to work through the steps.
That's awesome!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
I plan on going through the steps this weekend. We will see where I end up.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
So last night I am driving home well past dark. I noticed that my brake lights didn't work..... so I try the flashers while the parking bulbs are on and both filiments in both bulbs are burning brightly to use the North Carolina term for having the lights on. Then I got under the wagon and wedged a metal tool between the two leads and then checked for brake lights. Check - burning brightly.
That left the switch.... the 2nd switch in the wagon in seven months.... so today at lunch I got a ride to napa for the above switch. After an oil change I swapped switches (in goes the third!) and we are back to working brake lights!
On the lighter side Scramboleer keeps posting photos of a stretched army wagon troop carrier and I am trying to figure out how to find/buy/hide one from the wife.....
pavel6
Well Oiled
Ben,
I've really enjoyed your build - read it all today.
Back in post #234 you state: "After that I added some MTF fluid for anti rust..." Pardon my ignorance, but what is "MTF"? Mother's Toxic Fluid? Magic Transmission Fluid? A secret code for kerosene? I do know what the IMF is....even IBM...
Thanks..
I've really enjoyed your build - read it all today.
Back in post #234 you state: "After that I added some MTF fluid for anti rust..." Pardon my ignorance, but what is "MTF"? Mother's Toxic Fluid? Magic Transmission Fluid? A secret code for kerosene? I do know what the IMF is....even IBM...
Thanks..
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it.
Meet the Fockers...... no
Marble then fieldstone... no
Michael Theodore Franklin.... close
Manual transmission fluid = MTF
It is a gl3/4 equivalent by Pennzoil and/or Valvoline for manual transmissions when gl-5 gear oil (the modern stuff) will damage the brass synchronizers and bronze bushings (inside second gear) on the t-90. If you have a warn or saturn overdrive it will also protect the brass synchro in there too. Viscosity wise I believe they are in the 75-80 range when compared to a normal gear oil.
I am a dork when it comes to lubricants - but I don't hang out in oil forums, those guys are nuts. Want to see my spreadsheets?
[emoji15]
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pavel6
Well Oiled
Thanks Ben,
I need to put some replacement oil in the new T19 four speed that has found itself in our wagon***. So far I've only used kerosene and then engine oil as a flush, so will look for this gl3 or gl4 oil. So, please do not send me your spreadsheets.... my brain was full back in the '60s, so there's no room for anything newer than Beatles music or technical information of any kind. Thank you again.
Your servant, Pavel.
*** under no circumstances should you look at my foolish attempt at this install. But I'll give you the link anyway since almost no one heeds my warnings/advice. http://pavelsuniverse.com/willys/transmission.html
I need to put some replacement oil in the new T19 four speed that has found itself in our wagon***. So far I've only used kerosene and then engine oil as a flush, so will look for this gl3 or gl4 oil. So, please do not send me your spreadsheets.... my brain was full back in the '60s, so there's no room for anything newer than Beatles music or technical information of any kind. Thank you again.
Your servant, Pavel.
*** under no circumstances should you look at my foolish attempt at this install. But I'll give you the link anyway since almost no one heeds my warnings/advice. http://pavelsuniverse.com/willys/transmission.html
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Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Glad to help. Napa, most oriellys have it in some form. You just have to read the labels.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Thanks for the advise. If my t90 comes out another one will go back in.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Hey Fellas - on a whim I looked up D. A. Walters today. Unfortunately I missed him by seven years. His body rests peacefully in Toledo in a cemetary I will leave nameless. I have a used 2nd gear for him, and if I am ever in Toledo, it is his.Found this one the web today.
Time to work through the steps.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Friday night update a little late.
While greasing and prepping the wagon for Saturday's trip I noticed the oil level was a little high. Nothing looked or smelled funny so I figured I would check the oil filter housing. Normally it remains about 80% full. I pulled the cover and the filter and it was only about 10% full. Figuring it must have a crack I retired the Purolator housing after 60 years of service. Fortunately I had a nos Fram F4 ready to go as I planned to make the swap before next year's Yellowstone trip with the family. So out with the old.
And in with the new:
It hold a bit more oil overall and has a more dense filtration rating. The wing nut top also makes it easier to service - but no less messy. After a quick warm up the oil level is back to normal and the new housing is remaining properly full.
At some point I will see whats going on with the old purolator housing and try to fix it.
Today I am going to work on output seals and input seals on the axles and transfercase. Gear oil! Yay!!
More to come.
While greasing and prepping the wagon for Saturday's trip I noticed the oil level was a little high. Nothing looked or smelled funny so I figured I would check the oil filter housing. Normally it remains about 80% full. I pulled the cover and the filter and it was only about 10% full. Figuring it must have a crack I retired the Purolator housing after 60 years of service. Fortunately I had a nos Fram F4 ready to go as I planned to make the swap before next year's Yellowstone trip with the family. So out with the old.
And in with the new:
It hold a bit more oil overall and has a more dense filtration rating. The wing nut top also makes it easier to service - but no less messy. After a quick warm up the oil level is back to normal and the new housing is remaining properly full.
At some point I will see whats going on with the old purolator housing and try to fix it.
Today I am going to work on output seals and input seals on the axles and transfercase. Gear oil! Yay!!
More to come.
There is nothing like the smell of gear oil in the morning! Good luck.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Sunday update:
I only spent about 3.5 hours working on the wagon today. Actually about 3 as 30 minutes was working on fixing the air compressor. Apparently after 20 years the regulator made from plastic went south.
With the regulator out of the picture we could continue:
Pretend you know what the formerly installed regulator knows like. Its missing in the photo.
The old regulator innards:
Underneath the wagon I disconnected the driveshaft and reated it on a jack stand. Got the air compressor working and air wrenched off the yoke flange nut. Then I got my seal puller out and poped out the old seal.
Stripped down seal flange:
The old seal got some abuse to pop out.
Thank god the camera focussed on the surrounding material instead of the pld seal:
The new seal, felt and seal:
I lined up everything with the yoke, Indian Head Shellaced it and then using the front 4wd nut socket I tapped it into place until seated.
I need to buy a torque wrench that will go to the service manual spec'ed 200 foot pounds but before then I have to go to a tradeshow in California. So my next update will be in two weeks or so.
Until next time.
I only spent about 3.5 hours working on the wagon today. Actually about 3 as 30 minutes was working on fixing the air compressor. Apparently after 20 years the regulator made from plastic went south.
With the regulator out of the picture we could continue:
Pretend you know what the formerly installed regulator knows like. Its missing in the photo.
The old regulator innards:
Underneath the wagon I disconnected the driveshaft and reated it on a jack stand. Got the air compressor working and air wrenched off the yoke flange nut. Then I got my seal puller out and poped out the old seal.
Stripped down seal flange:
The old seal got some abuse to pop out.
Thank god the camera focussed on the surrounding material instead of the pld seal:
The new seal, felt and seal:
I lined up everything with the yoke, Indian Head Shellaced it and then using the front 4wd nut socket I tapped it into place until seated.
I need to buy a torque wrench that will go to the service manual spec'ed 200 foot pounds but before then I have to go to a tradeshow in California. So my next update will be in two weeks or so.
Until next time.
Love your sense of humor.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
. Thanks!
Ckelley254
Bigger Hammer
Wednesday, June 17th update.
Tonight I assembled the driver side brakes and plumbed the brake hose.
I also put the shock on but forgot to photo that.
I then did the same on the other side.
I am trying the clips for the shocks but will default to cotter pins if the clips don't work out. They seemed like a good idea at the time - but you don't change them so often, we will see.
I then drained the differential and pulled the cover. Dirty/old fluid, but no sparklies and the teeth are all where they are supposed to be.
Then I cleaned everything up and called it a day. Next update Friday or Saturday. We are quickly approching self propulsion.......
I was going to post this some time ago but forgot. I am using speed bleeders which is a check valve bleeder nipple. It makes bleeding brakes ultra simple and I use them in everything that has hydraulic brakes.
More to come.
Ben, is the part number of the speed bleeders pictured the same as what you used on your on your wagon? Also, the reviews on dorman speed bleeders seem to be bad. Have you had any problems with them?
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Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Yep - all the way around. I have the wheel cylinders from KaiserWillys, but they were the same in the originals and the spare cylinder I have from Oriellys.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Sorry - I forgot to mention - I broke one tightening it. Be gentle and use a small wrench to tighten. Otherwise they work great and I use them in all my vehicles. I change brake fluid every few years to preserve the system so they only get touched then.
Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Jan 27th update.
Due to the winter over salting we tend to do here the wagon has been parked. I run it periodically to get everything up to temperature. While it warms I have been restoring an old tractor. Short of paint the tractor is done.
I did notice the base of the distributor on the Super Hurricane was cracked at the mounting ear. Thanks to the guys on the forum I have a replacement.
The next big projects for the wagon are the steering balls and seals, the headliner and the driver's door latch/window regulator.
Some folks have asked if I am going to Moab. Unfortunately its not in the budget because in June the family and I are loading up in the wagon for a trip to Yellowstone, the Hot Springs in Ouray and then home.
I need to do the 6000 mile tune up before then and fit some road tires. It should be a good trip. There are probably a few other tidbits to do but I cover those as I find them. I will post the trip in the road trip section.
Until then I am waiting for warmer weather and a good rain to clean the salt from the roads to break the wagon back out.
I will leave you with a Christmas week kitchen table valve guide replacement on that old John Deere tractor head.
Due to the winter over salting we tend to do here the wagon has been parked. I run it periodically to get everything up to temperature. While it warms I have been restoring an old tractor. Short of paint the tractor is done.
I did notice the base of the distributor on the Super Hurricane was cracked at the mounting ear. Thanks to the guys on the forum I have a replacement.
The next big projects for the wagon are the steering balls and seals, the headliner and the driver's door latch/window regulator.
Some folks have asked if I am going to Moab. Unfortunately its not in the budget because in June the family and I are loading up in the wagon for a trip to Yellowstone, the Hot Springs in Ouray and then home.
I need to do the 6000 mile tune up before then and fit some road tires. It should be a good trip. There are probably a few other tidbits to do but I cover those as I find them. I will post the trip in the road trip section.
Until then I am waiting for warmer weather and a good rain to clean the salt from the roads to break the wagon back out.
I will leave you with a Christmas week kitchen table valve guide replacement on that old John Deere tractor head.
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Flinthillsben
Well Oiled
Sunday, Feb 11th 2018 update.
Let the Yellowstone Prep begin.....
First up was minor/major repair work on the driver's door components.
I started by disassembling the inner door components. My door latch fork doesn't spring back and sometimes the inside handle sticks in the unlatch position. The triangle vent window has a broken bottom pivot and the main window needs a lube.
I got it all apart cleaned up the spot to get welded and then welded it back together. After some cleanup and paint it went all back together.
Using a heatgun or high heat source makes it easy to get the glass in and out of a 60 year or seal.
Then I started working on the door latch. First I figured I would lune the hell out of the mechanism to try and flush out any junk. Unfortunately it didn't help. I would lube, work the mechanism, then lube some more so that it could work its way in.
It didn't help so everything would need to come out and apart. After getting the latch mechanism open I found a broken clock spring.
Pete - if you have your ears on - did you have to replace your spring or just build up the texas shaped piece?
So other than that I lubed the window regulator and worked it quite a bit. Now I am on the hunt for a spring. We see how it goes.
More to come.
Let the Yellowstone Prep begin.....
First up was minor/major repair work on the driver's door components.
I started by disassembling the inner door components. My door latch fork doesn't spring back and sometimes the inside handle sticks in the unlatch position. The triangle vent window has a broken bottom pivot and the main window needs a lube.
I got it all apart cleaned up the spot to get welded and then welded it back together. After some cleanup and paint it went all back together.
Using a heatgun or high heat source makes it easy to get the glass in and out of a 60 year or seal.
Then I started working on the door latch. First I figured I would lune the hell out of the mechanism to try and flush out any junk. Unfortunately it didn't help. I would lube, work the mechanism, then lube some more so that it could work its way in.
It didn't help so everything would need to come out and apart. After getting the latch mechanism open I found a broken clock spring.
Pete - if you have your ears on - did you have to replace your spring or just build up the texas shaped piece?
So other than that I lubed the window regulator and worked it quite a bit. Now I am on the hunt for a spring. We see how it goes.
More to come.