58 Green Machine

Hey Gary.... That's the way to Keep On Truckin!! Pivnic

Spent the day working on the heating system for the Willys. Revived the old cable system along with cleaning up the core. Also ordered the last piece of the puzzle for the cooling system. Slow progress today but needed to get done. Also got to talk Willys with Pivnic today. I love hearing his stories. We had some good laughs and traded some information. Overall a good day.

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Spent the day working on the heating system for the Willys. Revived the old cable system along with cleaning up the core. Also ordered the last piece of the puzzle for the cooling system. Slow progress today but needed to get done. Also got to talk Willys with Pivnic today. I love hearing his stories. We had some good laughs and traded some information. Overall a good day.

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Rear glass is installed. The new and improved LED taillights are installed and wired. The only problem is that the turn signals don’t flash. After further investigation, it seems that the LED lights don’t get the flasher hot enough to make it flash since they are too energy efficient. So I have ordered electronic flasher relays to hopefully fix this issue.

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Glass sure looks nice. How was the packaging when you got the pieces? I'm curious how they could even pack that well for shipping across the country.
 
They spray foamed it. Packed very nice.


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Huh. That's what I thought but don't like to assume anything. Did you get the new flasher yet? I know that LEDs are nice looking but can be a pain to get working 100% right on stuff that didn't have them from the factory.
 
Huh. That's what I thought but don't like to assume anything. Did you get the new flasher yet? I know that LEDs are nice looking but can be a pain to get working 100% right on stuff that didn't have them from the factory.

I didn’t get them yet but will keep you posted.


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I have done a lot of light upgrades on heavy trucks and auto applications over the years. Are you running LED lights front and rear on the turn signal circuit? If so, install an inline resistor in your circuit for the turns. This will mimic the resistance that the older style bulbs (filament) create, and your flasher should work just fine.
You can also attempt to use a filament bulb on the front, with an LED on the back with out the inline resistor. However, that may sometimes lead to a hyperflash condition because the body control module thinks that the rears are not working because it doesn't sense enough resistance.
If i remember right you are using an early/mid nineties GM chassis. How much of the wiring are you using from the donor chassis?
well, any way. I always got my inline resistors from radio shack.
Sometimes i only needed two, (for vehicles with out a body control module), I would mount them in the circuit to the front, (4 LED system), and it would work just fine.
If you have a body control module, you will need four. I mounted a resistor, in each turn circuit to eliminate the hyper flash syndrome,or no turn at all.
You need the resistance to get the flasher unit to work correctly. With out it, no flash.
If this is as clear as mud, feel free to PM and i will try to trim down this landslide of info to your specific application.
 
I have done a lot of light upgrades on heavy trucks and auto applications over the years. Are you running LED lights front and rear on the turn signal circuit? If so, install an inline resistor in your circuit for the turns. This will mimic the resistance that the older style bulbs (filament) create, and your flasher should work just fine.
You can also attempt to use a filament bulb on the front, with an LED on the back with out the inline resistor. However, that may sometimes lead to a hyperflash condition because the body control module thinks that the rears are not working because it doesn't sense enough resistance.
If i remember right you are using an early/mid nineties GM chassis. How much of the wiring are you using from the donor chassis?
well, any way. I always got my inline resistors from radio shack.
Sometimes i only needed two, (for vehicles with out a body control module), I would mount them in the circuit to the front, (4 LED system), and it would work just fine.
If you have a body control module, you will need four. I mounted a resistor, in each turn circuit to eliminate the hyper flash syndrome,or no turn at all.
You need the resistance to get the flasher unit to work correctly. With out it, no flash.
If this is as clear as mud, feel free to PM and i will try to trim down this landslide of info to your specific application.

I will try that tomorrow


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Just my 2 cents.

Have you tried using a Heavy Duty flasher?

I did and it solved the problems using LED lights.
 
Just my 2 cents.

Have you tried using a Heavy Duty flasher?

I did and it solved the problems using LED lights.

So I got the lights to work. The electronic relay was a bust so I have regular bulbs in the front and LED in the back. No big deal. I rewired the lights in the front and tested them before installing the grill. Also mounted the pusher fan. Fenders are on. Now time to tidy the wiring up. Still plenty left to do though but moving forward.
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So I got the lights to work. The electronic relay was a bust so I have regular bulbs in the front and LED in the back. No big deal. I rewired the lights in the front and tested them before installing the grill. Also mounted the pusher fan. Fenders are on. Now time to tidy the wiring up. Still plenty left to do though but moving forward.
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Got my new cluster in the mail today. Looks even better than I thought it would. Spent a few hours tidying up and tying up some loose ends on the truck.



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Let there be light..............getting there keep posting. Could you share how far the front tires extend beyond the front fender?
 
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Looks good. Keep on trucking, the end is in sight!

I decided to do an upgrade on the truck stereo. I needed something decent but something that’s going to be pretty much hidden. I got pretty creative with my system. I had to fabricate a new faceplate since I had to cut some dash to make steering wheel fit. I made the faceplate a double duty plate by making in the steering wheel mount to. Once stereo was installed, I had to figure a way to get wiring inside the doors for the 6 1/2 in door speakers. I used an aftermarket sleeve that slides in and out with door. Then to get some decent bass, I decided to go with some 10” subwoofers. Only place I figured they would work is in the toolboxes under the seat. The amp powering it is mounted behind the seat. It sounds awesome for a small system of 1100 Watts. I know some of you won’t like the system in an old Willys but I love my music!

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Something about this:
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Reminds me of this:
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That is Pretty Scary! Maybe a new name for your Rig??

Hey, are you gonna be ready for Moab? Are you planning to Join the Convoy? I'm making pretty good progress on Floyd! HE should be ready to rip! Pivnic
 
That is Pretty Scary! Maybe a new name for your Rig??

Hey, are you gonna be ready for Moab? Are you planning to Join the Convoy? I'm making pretty good progress on Floyd! HE should be ready to rip! Pivnic

No I won’t make the Moab. I’m making progress but still some key things to do yet.


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Bummer you will not be able to make it to Moab. Keep up your good wrenching. Cheers.
 
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