59 Wagon Project - Finally getting to it.

Thanks Piv. Well it’s midnight :30 and I am working around the top seam as everyone is in bed and the cut off wheel is a little loud. If I keep my hand on the rear exhaust of the die grinder and feather it slowly, I get some progress.

Now I know what’s behind the bubbling.. not as bad tho as I had worried

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Few days ago let my “Apprentice” get after some old body mounts and the boogered rear x-member. (Should’ve just cut them off when the body was off). First time using a torch for him. After getting comfortable with the jet engine sound, settings, etc.....he was all about it.

“Melting and cutting steel is cool Dad”. Yep. (Please watch that tip son) *♂️

Having the Wagon out in the drive was a juxtaposition: Wifey’s 2017 Grand, and the 1959 Wagon. Quite the evolution.

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Grabbed some 3” flat stock to make some body mounts. Was tacking them together so Cole could have some things to do after school.

Neighbor comes over to check progress, then says “why don’t you just use some box steel and save all that welding.”

Huh?

“Yeah.... less welding of long runs, nice rounded corners, less touch up and finishing...”

Damn. You’re a Fart Smeller! I mean Smart Feller!

So back to the supply place and here we are today

(The names on the grease board is what the family is trying to decide to name this girl... that’s been a funny exercise to watch)

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Love the CAD drawings on the dry erase board. CAD=(creative artsy doodles) that is called getn her done.

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Good deal, getting a torch in his hands while he's young. Then when he gets older, such things won't be foreign to him. Let him try a little welding, too. How old is he?
 
Good deal, getting a torch in his hands while he's young. Then when he gets older, such things won't be foreign to him. Let him try a little welding, too. How old is he?

He’s 13 Don. Been letting him do a lot of sheet metal work. I know it’s harder than bigger stuff, but he’s definitely enjoying it.

Thanks for the “other” side view of this project


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So yeah. Waaaay easier with the 3x4 box tube. Just tacking in and will burn them in “for keeps” after mock up.

Figured I’ll set them flush with the body mounts (steel on steel) to keep consistency, and “should” all go up 1/2” when the body pucks go in. Well, that’s the idea that works on paper.

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Dad was more stoked than Cole when he was torching that I wasn’t really paying attention to how short he was cutting the rear frame horns. *♂️.

Added 2x4 box that fits inside the Waggy rails perfectly to extend the horns, and ran them wild....to prep for a poss box tube hitch, winch & d-rings on the lower crossmember. They should be hidden below the stock chrome wrap-around bumper. Just gotta leave 28-7/8”+ (front-2-rear clearance) for the K5 blazer tank.

Running into possible issues with the rear shock upper mounts tho. But then again, that rear bumper really “curves” out and away from the tailgate. That should give us the needed clearance for the tank, and be able to tuck it up against the body tight for clearance. Just tacked in the frame extensions with 0.35 flux and set the c channel crossmember in place for now. I also have some 1/4” 2x4 box as well, but thinking I’ll save that for the lower section.

I guess I’m more at the head scratching and research google phase of rear crossmember pics. I know we want to do the swing away rear tire carrier, AND KEEP THE STOCK chrome rear wrap-around bumper. I’ve seen either/or, and variations of, but not both. I’m fortunate that I don’t have a rear valance, and can mod one up with some spare sheet metal here after a design.

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Wow.......You are a magician if you can have a stock bumper, a swing away tire carrier, a hitch receiver, a functional tailgate, and make it look right. Good luck.
 
Wow.......You are a magician if you can have a stock bumper, a swing away tire carrier, a hitch receiver, a functional tailgate, and make it look right. Good luck.
LOL I have 27 sketches of ways it won't look so nice. I am hoping you come up with something cool.

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Ya Gary and Duane.... like I said I’m really head scratching.... it was about midnight :30 when I ran outta wire and pulled my hood off to see what time it was. Figured a quick post update, barley pop to wash down the grinding dust and hit the sack

Trying to think of a pivot base that “arcs” out from the right side of the valance area, and up and over the stock bumper to below the D pillar/taillight....so the tailgate clears..... there’s room to “come out and away” from the body as there seems to be room between the body and bumper to make something happen.

The below part I think is straight forward with Reciever stock and some D rings welded to a 2x4 box that runs across, kinda hidden back. But I’m tied to the depth of the fuel tank and clearing the shock mounts on the front side...

Unless we go with the stock Wagoneer fuel tank. Few things there tho.... getting the fuel filler to go over that far, and then seeing Sparky’s issues with a poly tank he went away from. If there was a way to use the stock saddle tank, I’d have all kinds of room under there.

I guess that leads to “can we use the stock tank with the LS fuel pressures?”






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I am leaning towards a drop down carrier. Tubing to the rear of the tire, license plate dealio from tailgate mounted on that.

I am thinking just 2 chunks of steel plate bolted through the bumper into whatever bumper mounts I fabricate, then weld pivots to those plates. I am going to hammertone paint my bumpers since I am sectioning the side parts about 5 inches to bring it closer to the tailgate and make up for fender openings being closer to the back end after my body mod.

I also filled the mount holes on the side of the wagon for the rear bumper. Going to use a stout section of L mounted sturdy to the frame, going under the body. My last wagon took a beating back on those corners on the Rubicon and John Bull trails. Those holes got ripped wide open.

I can't imagine you having room for the Waggy saddle tank. Mine barely fits with a relatively compact Chevy 4speed and Willys transfer case. The 4l60e and GM transfer will run back at least 8 to 10 inches more.

I am using the saddle with a transfer pump to a rear s10 2 door blazer tank with the in tank pump inside.

It all fits under there. It works in my imagination. Time will tell.

Duane

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LOL I have 27 sketches of ways it won't look so nice. I am hoping you come up with something cool.

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Messed around this AM with my Hi-tech CAD program....

I kept trying to picture it, after googling so many rear ends..... :cool: No no guys.... That actually led down a long deep hole of XJ’s, TJ’s Yotas etc. Honestly!

So for my little brain, just needed to start mocking things up, and let things show as we go....

Duane... I think I “might” be able to sneak a bracket off this last crossmember I set in there. Tried a full length 1/4” C-channel, approximately the length of the valance.... scooted it back as far as I could, but still have access to the hinge nuts. Made a 1-1/4” tab off the front side to pick up the edge of the two body pucks back there.

If not, this will be over-skookum to tie the bumper mounts to.... but we might just have to notch the inner radius of the passenger side section when we get there for clearance in that little crick available.

Just thinking out loud. ANY thoughts or advice are welcome from y’all more experienced, as I’ve never made a swing away before.

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So you plan on notching the body a bit for clearance of the swing away or the chrome bumper "wing?" Just trying to follow your train of thought a little bit here.
 
So you plan on notching the body a bit for clearance of the swing away or the chrome bumper "wing?" Just trying to follow your train of thought a little bit here.

I was thinking the inner bumper radius....from that top down view, maybe a chuck of that bottom corner of the body as it’s all been crappily glasses and bondo’d...... but last night was measuring the stock saddle tank and with the Suburban xfer case clearance, I might have to go with the K5 blazer tank I have.

Which means this might not work with the straight valance crossmember as I need around 28-29” front/rear and I have 23 right now clearing the shock towers

Damn... gonna have to mock them up then finger out the rear crossmember


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Dude that suburban saddle is massive. When you said saddle tank I thought you were talking about a Wagoneer saddle tank. 19 gallons versus 32.

I was just eyeballing Casey's TJ rear tank. It looked like a good candidate till the tape measure said it was about 3 inches too wide.

You are sitting about 2 inches higher off the frame in the rear than I am. Betting that K5 tank will sit nice and protected in there. My guess is that rear member will have to probably be out back of the valence.

"Mock it up. Bump your head getting back up from under the rig, sleep on it, then build it." Quote from a good friend who builds at home like nobody else I know. He says people waste to much time thinking and should be building. (He is an Aerospace Engineer LOL)

Duane

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Saw these awhile ago.

Copied for ya.

Just ideas to further confuse ya.

Duane
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Saw these awhile ago.

Copied for ya.

Just ideas to further confuse ya.

Duane
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LOL.. I saw that yesterday looking at rear ends... funny how much they asked for it.

That was the inspiration..... also saw a split gate on an XJ that was interesting.

You’re looking at gates and I’m researching tube benders. Go figure

Jimmy



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I was thinking the inner bumper radius....from that top down view, maybe a chuck of that bottom corner of the body as it’s all been crappily glasses and bondo’d...... but last night was measuring the stock saddle tank and with the Suburban xfer case clearance, I might have to go with the K5 blazer tank I have.

Which means this might not work with the straight valance crossmember as I need around 28-29” front/rear and I have 23 right now clearing the shock towers

Damn... gonna have to mock them up then finger out the rear crossmember


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Ok the explanation makes more sense now and an interesting take on the picture above as well for this issue. I'm curious to see what the final plan is.
 
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